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Wednesday, December 22, 2010

Jomson to Muktinath.

We reach 'new heights' as we drive into the lower reaches of the Himalayas.

Early morning had most of us at a meditation session given by Smedal in a loft room of our trekker's lodge, Om's House. Following breakfast we found our 4x4 waiting to take us to Muktinath. Driving tips covered water crossings without snorkels on the cars but a team had gone out before to set up markers for best positions for crossing. Suzi took over the driving for a while then Hilary took the wheel with Sooz providing some driving lessons from beside her. Marion was not able to drive with us so went ahead in the lead car, with Team Ganesh, once again. This begun to trouble me as our team was no longer able to enjoy the challenges as a team. Marion was dysfunctional while driving in the mountains. She was receiving much support from all who were able to help her through counselling and encouragement and listening.  The greater team was working very well. We had women of steel and the strength of the team was greater than the sum of the individuals.

Team Tara prepares to leave Jomson for Muktinath.
Cho Cho inspects her camera. Shop doors open though the moring is still early.
                       Water crossings, some of which were very deep, added a new dimension to our 4x4 driving


"Welcome to the desert," said Arik. He explained that before one reaches the Alpine vegetation there is an area where there is desert. We would be driving through this. We had breathtaking views from here on. "Eeemazing" was the word used over and over again. Spirits were high and we relaxed into good driving over stones, through water and across soft slippery sandy slopes.  Some places had villages and some areas held agricultural land.

Dry river bed, arrid slopes and still some snow to be seen on some mountain tops, albeit from the winter before.


We were not alone on the roads. Muktinath is a place to which many pilgrims flock. The month was a good one for this. Monsoons had passed and the colder weather was due in a few weeks. Winds blew and we did need warmer clothing on this day.







I took a turn at the driving and was quite enjoying this. Suzi remained with me as navigator and offering tips with some of the challenging aspects of driving along the sandy desert roads.
                       


A horse grazes on the outskirts of a village.



Hil was enjoying the 4x4 driving.



A little development on the road to Muktinath


A village showing Buddhist prayer flags


Malka attended to three women, probably Tibetan,  from the village who had gangrene in fingers




A Hindu pilgrim bathes in the holy water at Muktinath



Pilgrims at the temple of Muktinath





Pilgrims walk through the holy waters





The organisers gave us prayer flags to hang in the trees. For those of Eastern faiths it was a most significant experience to be at this site of Muktinath. In this photo are Hilary (facing) Marion from Israel and Cho Cho from Burma.





We returned to Jomson the way we came but by nightfall our water crossings were a challenge and for some teams it was a better idea to hand the driving over to the Napalese drivers/mechanics who were with us as ' back up' support.



Sue-Ann and her friend Beverley (Australian) from Team Kumari at the after dinner discussion and feed back on the night in the village
two days before. We all had diferent information and differing experiences.
We had all enjoyed an informative and enriching experience in Titi Village.


Our day closed with cold showers but a good sleep though the temperatures were a bit cool. We thought of our return journey back along the mountain road which was to be a torteous experience once again for our driver Marion who felt so contrite over the accident. This was a winding road along the gorge of the Kali Gandaki river and the mountain ever present on the other side of the narrow sandy road. Our support staff negotiated with bus drivers and other traffic when difficulties arose in passing traffic and our convoy of ten cars had to be carefully managed through difficulty terrain and around hair pin bends.









Wednesday, December 15, 2010

ANAPURNA. Social Responsiveness: We work in Gyan Yoti Primary School

Wednesday 6 October
A rich experience: Our teams are involved in community service.

Early morning in Team Tara's little village home - where we had spent the night on thin foam mattresses spread on the living room floor - saw the father of the family rise first, and coming through to open the door and let in the new day. He stretched to the switch, to put on the single light bulb hanging from a nail on the wooden post. We watched from the sleeping bags as members of the family followed and all headed outside. We rose, rolled up our sleeping bags as we watched some of the early morning activities. The youngest child, old enough to pick some country flowers, came in with a little posy which she arranged in small brass vases at the picture of the family's chosen goddess which was set in an alcove. Beside her were the kitchen shelves,  two plastic baskets containing tooth brushes and paste and an electric point for the TV and another appliance. The young teenager studied herself in the single mirror hanging from the post in the centre of the living room. We ventured outside and saw the early morning light bringing a golden glow to the surrounding snow covered, Daulageri Mountains. The golden light on the mountain tops, soon faded and the beauty of those moments was left for the mind's eye. I had never before seen such exquisite lighting on mountain tops. In the village below, people were assembling beside the single tap provided by the government and set into a concrete post with a small surrounding wall which contained the water. We had seen the same thing in every village we passed. All there, still warm from their beds, were cleaning teeth and washing sleep from their eyes.

We took photos and then made our way up the road to the school where we prepared to receive instructions for the work on the school. Breakfast was in the grounds of the school. Our simple meal consisted of apples, for which the Mustang region is known, and delicious pancakes with honey and perhaps a beverage.

Each group was allocated a task suitable to ability and agility it seemed! So the strong and athletic Team Trisuli, Angelique, Helga Crystal and Karine from the Netherlands were to put primer on the corrugated iron roof. Some had the task of white washing the inside walls and our Team Tara had the task of unpacking the many cases of clothing brought in from Australia by the girls from OZ and the many books and stationery items alongside. We organised this by categories and with the invaluable support from Durga who did the translating and negotiating we had a structure whereby the villagers would arrange for fair and sensible distribution of the clothing. I sopke to the school principal about setting up a simple library and categorising the books but in the end, we felt that the villagers would be disempowered had we been prescriptive so we left the final arrangements and decisions with the principal and his teachers. It is my opinion that contexts are best known to those in the context and that in the end people will do as they wish to anyway and those of the village are best informed for making  decisions that affect themselves. There is an intelligence in all cultures and communities. There was a social structure in the smallest of the communities. Durga spoke about the resource not been sustainable and the possibility of setting up a welfare system in the community, namely one where benefits in terms of the new clothing brought,  might be reasonably sustainable but, what was decided upon we have not heard. Following our visit, there would be a second group which would be building on our work and thus there was some continuity in the process begun by ourselves. Having done what we thought right with the resources brought we set about helping the hard working painters of the school building. There was a need to work fast as the hike out of the mountains had to continue with time to drive to our next over night stop in Jomson. Villagers assembled, photographs were taken and speeches made. We all had red dust applied to our foreheads and were given a scarf across our shoulders, as we were blessed and thanked by the senior women who prepared to show their enormous appreciation.

Our hike down the mountain took us through neighbouring villages and we settled into a restaurant or tea room of a larger village where we had a delicious lunch with some fresh salad (at last) and even some dessert! The 4x4's were waiting. Clearly visible in the faces of those who had been involved in the accident three days previously was the the impact of the realisation that the driving on the mountain roads was to continue. A drive with  the Kali Gandaiki river below on the right and the mountain on the left.  Anxiety levels rose when it was found that the replacement vehicle to be used by the group who had had the accident, did not have a working hand break! It was decided that Suzi, who was an experienced 4x4 driver, would drive the vehicle. Marion who had driven the car when it overturned, for emotional reasons,  could not drive, even as a passenger, in this car. She moved to the lead car with team Ganesh. This was the best solution and we felt concern for Marion who had disintegrated emotionally and was having a wretched time, as she was governed by fear and trepidation for any driving along the mountain roads which were both narrow and rough. She had cried the whole way. It was an upsetting situation indeed. It also broke up the cohesion of the team as her distress impacted on other members in the team. The night before, we heard in the village, a bus which had been on the roads we had traversed, had slipped into the river below with many lives lost.

By nightfall we reached Jomson where we unpacked and found the comfort of a trekkers lodge at Om's Home. Hooray! There was an Internet Cafe up the road!  There was a substantial supper served. There were bathrooms off each of the rooms and plugs to charge cameras and phones. We were feeling 'civilised' again! The ping pong table had the Indian girls busy and Team Ganesh and the official photographer along with Limor who too, was such a good photographer coordinated video clips and photos to be sent back to Israel for posting to You Tube and communications with links e-mailed to loved ones back home.

Tomorrow would see us leave early and head for Muktinath which would be the highest point we would reach. It is a most holy Hindu site, south of the Himalayan Range and visited by pilgrims and travellers from all corners of the world. The trail we were to take was to lead through a change in landscape with breathtaking views of mountains, agriculture lands and deserts.

These are links you might like to try for video clips of the trip.
Enjoy the films


The single road through the little village. Washing on the wall and to the right the house in which we spent the night

Up the road. The steps lead to the vegetable patch beside the family home and also to the toilet set against the mountain behind the house. In all villages wood is stored on the walls and the amount is indicative of the 'wealth' of the family.

The early morning light on the Daulageri Mountains above Titi Village


Flowers set before the picture of the goddess worshipped by the family


The teenager who studied her image for a moment in the mirror

Marion (Israel), Maughreen (South Africa), Durga (Nepal) and Cho Cho (Burma)



Busying ourselves over the resources donated by the Xtrip participants

The Principal's office 

Painting the new school building. Girls you rock!



The school principal and Maughreen discuss the classification of books.


XTrip
Our girls from Holland



The assembly of villagers grouped for the farewell speeches


The road out of Titi Village - 'Xtrippers' leaving a job well done



A typical village outlet for running water



Passers by as we walk away from Titi Village and down the mountain


The idea of a visit to Gyan Jyoti School may have been pivotal in my vacillation as whether to join the trip or not. It was the highlight for many of us.