ANAPURNA Mustang: Titi Village and a social consciousness

Tuesday 5 October
A Heart's Desire ~ Hiking the Anapurna, and overnight in Titi Village

...Little to beat a good night's sleep when one had to begin a day's trekking as we had in stall for us. This was surely to be the highlight of the trip: interacting with villagers and contributing towards the development of the Gyan Jyoti School in Titi. Team members had brought books, toys and clothing and looked forward to giving these to the villagers. We knew too that we were to be given some challenges which would see us working in smaller groups as we contributed to the improvement of the school.

Vehicles took us from Pokhura, to designated area near the Kaligandaki River, where we prepared ourselves with sun tan lotions and hiking rods, water bottles and trail snacks, and great enthusiasm for a good hike, which would take the greater part of the day. We crossed the great Kaligandaki River bed. Boulders and rocks upon boulders and rocks, as far as the eye could see both up and down the river bed, glistening white and reflecting the heat and the glare of autumnal sun in temperatures above 30deg C. Monsoons had sent great volumes of water coursing through the gorge over these endless boulders just a few months before but, we were met with some tinier streams, here and there, which we needed to forge - none too daunting and pleasantly cooling. We crossed the bed and made our way to Choyo Duereli village for morning tea or was this a light lunch? Arik explained to me that the village had provided refreshments to hikers and trekkers in the past, but with the building of a road, they had lost the source of revenue. Arik Braz owns the company which was taking us on this challenge. Briefly, Arik told me that his company had given all the families in this tiny village, money, that the income was fairly spread, and that they might host our visit. What a good idea this was. Not only was it an equitable and kind gesture, it meant implicitly that the whole village had an interest in our visit. The tea house produced delicious biscuits and we enjoyed the reprieve from the trek in that very hot river bed. We picked up our back packs to continue and guess what...we had to make our way back across that river bed! It was an interesting walk, Arik and Progy up ahead as they picked out the right direction for us, and we chatting to one another.  We had to watch carefully where each foot was placed on the next rock. Then across on the other side we begun our accent to Titi Village.

Ahead of us, was a breathtaking view of the mountain range. The lower mountains before us,  Arik said, tongue in cheek, we would be finding our way across. It was cooler in the mountain vegetation and the pathway was well established. We plodded on and I periodically checked the altitude on the special watch Richard had lent me. This climb took us to 2 700 ft. We passed through Kunjo Village where the inhabitants were from the lower caste and most were deaf and mute. Whole families of deaf and mute people in one village was an interesting concept to me. We walked on to Titi Village where Suzi made her way ahead to check that the villagers were in readiness for us. A goatherd showed us a tiny goat just dropped some hours before and cradled in his scarf from his shoulder. Titi lake rested in the little valley between the hills and I wondered whether it iced up in the very cold winter months soon to be upon the inhabitants of this region. We made our way into the village, to the village school where the villagers were standing ready to greet us. We walked through the gates and each of us received a garland of country flowers and marigolds. This was an auspicious occasion for them and this was their way of honouring us. It was to prove a priveledge for us. How gentle and hospitable, warm and grateful these humble, good people were. Each team of four was allocated to a family where the team would spend the night. We were given a task of finding out information about the family which was an excellent ice breaker. We collected our overnight bags which had been brought by sherpers. Sherpers were strong mountain people who seemed not to balk at the weight on their backs.

We spent the closing hours of the day orientating ourselves to the idea of sleeping on the floor of a village home, eating the food of a village family and getting to know the host family. Guess what. There are no showers or baths, wash hand basins or flushing toilets. Shoes had to be left outside. No cupboard or table. We experienced how simply people can live and still be functional and rich in their unique way of life. Each team of four quickly felt welcomed and had to be involved in the cooking of the evening meal, dahl bat (Lentils and rice) over the informal simple family stove which burnt wood collected from the mountains. Smoke filled the living room and we had to sit on the floor, as did the family members by custom,  that we could breathe the air from beneath the smoke. "Coffee-tea" was offered. That was only coffee :-) The room reflected simplicity and the organised structure of the family home became apparent.

The young daughter was settled on a low stool beside the fire she was tending as she prepared to move from preparing the coffeetea to preparing the supper. We were shown a bucket of mushrooms collected from the mountains some hours before. Would we like those? They were delicious. There was mustard leaf which looked like kale without the purple colour. The family was vegetarian but if we would like chicken, that could be killed and cooked for us too. We insisted, "No No... Please don't kill the chicken!"

The family, with whom team Tara stayed, consisted of both parents, Shankha the father and Munbuja the mother. The children were Sita, Dhrendra, Rita, Bikram, Siwani, Sarita, and Yogita with ages ranging from about mid twenty to about five years. An older sister had married and lived out of the village and another with husband and child, in a small room on the flat roof above the house.Though the parents could not speak English, Bikram who had a sense of humour to boot, as he joked with Carolyn the beautiful Chinese lady, when she popped in for spices for the kitchen in her host house, answered the many questions we put to him. In all the families there was a constant passing of people visiting a while and people from the neighbouring village came too. Such was the openess of the homes and the friendliness of communal living in a traditional setting. It was an interesting thing to be told that a little lad of ten who had wondered in was from the neighbouring village and "...just comes and visits and goes again". Another, still very small and someone else's child, ambled into the home, while we were eating the evening meal. He climbed onto the mother's lap and she fed him. After the meal on stainless steel plates on the floor before us, with spoons or fingers as was the wont of each, we ate of a simple, nourishing and delicious meal.  Hilary then related very nicely to the younger daughter who was eleven and Hilary, taking the English text book onto her lap, discussed some of the exercises and the two engaged in a friendly way.

We learnt many things. We learnt that the local school educated children from one to five after which they went to the neighbouring village, Kunjo for 6-8 years and then on to Lake Kalopani school for further education. Deceased villagers were burnt at a holy place, on the river and if after the funeral pyre, a part of the body remained, "....perhaps a finger" said Bikram, "it was put into the rafters for about three years". Babies were delivered in the family home but if there was a complication, the woman in labour, was put onto a trailer and the village tractor took her to the clinic of a neighbouring village. The family lived on the food from the vegetable plot beside the house. The yield from this plot also provided for the winter and for trade. The plot contained corn and informally, between the stalks, grew beans, cauliflower, cabbage, tomatoes, rdishes, carrots, mustard leaf,  dahl  and herbs. The family owned four cows, four bulls, fourteen goats a dog and three chickens. Bikram said, "We never kill our cows." At night, it did sometimes happen, that rhinoceroses and  bears from the forest came down to eat the villagers' vegetables. Bikram told us that the house of stone and the furniture with the help of a carpenter friend, had been made by the father. On the floor were two narrrow, perhaps goat fur, carpets, put down for seating. (see photo) The mother had knotted these. The windows held no glass and from within, were shutters which could be closed to keep out the cold but would create a very dark home. The flat roof leaked during the rains and the house became wet during monsoons. There was an outside toilet which, eastern style, was sunk into the ground within a simple building. In a small simple structure behind the house, on the hill,  was the little dwelling place of a deaf mute, whom the family cared for. The old woman, was simple and could do little more than some cleaning now and again, and was from Kunjo Village, through which we had passed on our way to Titi Village. She was bathed once a week and received food daily.

Our matresses and pillows had been provided by the organisers and would be left with the families that they might be empowered to provide homestay for trekkers. They had been put out on reed mats by a daughter and we settled down that night for a humble and priveledged sleep in the home of a village family from the Anapurna. The evening had been social, with people from families visiting one another and a sharing of information which provided a rich experience for we, the visitors. Here too, payment had been made to all of the nineteen families that the whole village might benefit from our visit. Every family received new cooking utensils, bottled water and toilet paper. Prior to the visit, the organisers gave instruction on hygine, namely the need to boil the water and the need for cleanliness in the accommodation offered.  We had been so very well provided for. Our unwashed tired bodies climbed into our respective sleeping bags, and we slept well in the clothes we had hiked in, and would be wearing for the day of work to follow.

Refreshments at Choyo Duereli Village

Scherper with water in boxes. We catch our breath in Kunjo village



In every village there would be someone sitting over a container shelling beans.
This is comfortable sitting for people from the east who are flexible in the hips and traditionally do not use chairs.



A kid of a few hours old

The goatherd just before we entered Titi Village.
He has a kid of a few hours in his scarf against his chest

The road into Titi Village



Garlands ready to be given to us on our arrival in the grounds of  Gyan Jyoti School



Banner showing the sponsors of the trip



Preparing the family meal. Mustard leaf and beans with dahl.








The daughter who prepared the evening meal scarcely moved from where she was seated

Little folk on the hand knotted carpet made by the mother of the family

POKHARA 4x4 Driving from Pokhura along Kaligandike to Totopani

Day 4
4 October

Our evening arrival at the Pokhara after a long drive from Trishuli River was met with relief. We had a good hotel and would have a comfortable night. We had all brought wet clothing for which we had to make laundry arrangements. Little time was given to change and be ready for supper at a delightful restaurant a short way from the hotel.  Some of us felt tired and we some felt the need to restructure the packing and organise ourselves after the less comfortable set up in small tents. Hil and I chose to join the Oz team for the evening and have a quick sandwich in the hotel's dining room and more time to address personal comforts, and organisation and besides this we still had to complete a small task given our team, Tara!

Early Tuesday morning, we were briefed on some aspects of 4x4 driving. We left early and the convoy of cars headed for Gaza along the mountain pass hugging the Kaligandaki River gorge. I drove out of town and some way towards the mountain area. I had had some comprehensive experience in Richard's 4x4 some months before. Hilary drove a while with Marion beside her kindly offering some instruction. Marion then took over the driving and we felt confident in her driving since she had informed us that she had good experience in a 4x4 and some years before, was an ambulance driver and paramedic.  As the going became a little demanding we were advised to engage 4x4 mode and this brought some anxiety for Marion who informed us then that she had only driven an automatic 4x4. Added to this, she drove in Israel which was left hand driving and the cars in Nepal were right hand driving. Within a short space of time we reached a narrow part of the road, the car hit compacted sand on the side of the mountain and as if in slow motion, we gently tippled onto our side. Hilary and I were suspended by seat belts while Marion and Cho Cho were on the side touching the ground. All I could think of was the need to keep still as there was, no telling where the edge of road to the gorge below was, and the need to keep calm. Marion asked if we were all alright and within moments we had people around the car ready to help us out. I clearly remember Limo giving concise directions which was useful since from within the car we had no idea of the situation outside, and having had a shock, there was the need to be guided by someone who had a plan which would work in terms of the general situation we were now in. Limo said later when I remarked at how well she handled this, "I was in the Israeli army so have experience" We were helped out of the car and Hilary was the last to leave. She was overwrought with emotion having had the fright of been tipped during the white water rafting the day before, the stress she left at work and this, all proved too much for her at that stage. Smadar came to her aid with her knowledge of breathing techniques used in yoga which reduced her heart rate, and managed to restore a sense of calm for Hilary. Suzi with empathy and patience, then sat with Hilary at length, and seemed to be of comfort too. Later that night, Hilary and I had a long chat about all that had befallen us and her experience of it and how to handle the emotion and cognitively process it in a way that would empower her to be emotionally strong again and continue with courage.

Villagers had come to our aid and of course the Napalese mechanics/drivers who had accompanied the convoy all pulled the car in from the edge of the gorge and righted it. It could not be used by us. any Every personal posession was collected and returned to us, the car put into a space between two buildings of the next village and the convoy continued the journey which was not going to take us to Ghaza anymore, considering the delay caused by the accident, but to Tatopani which was less far. Some teams felt the event on the road, had upset them and chose to have Napalese drivers finish the driving. Hairpin bends on unsophisticated sandy roads with a gorge all the way below was not easy especially as night was falling. The varied consequences of an accident ramify in ripples and affect everyone in one way or another.

We arrived at, what must have been a hikers lodge, inTatopani in the evening. We were told that not all rooms had bathrooms so we had to share the ablutions though there was 'something of a shower and western toilet' on one roof. This was hiking style! Tatopani has hot springs which are sought after by tourists which invariably are hikers. Hilary and I had ditched our old costumes after the white water rafting so did not dip ourselves into the springs but besides this, I held concerns about a pool where many bodies come to wash. Back at the hotel Hils and I negotiated the use of a more acceptable shower with warm water and that was a good comfort for us after the experience of the day.

Our experience on the road had brought out so much in the character and personalities of individuals. For me, I realised how wonderful each person was in empathy and support. We had begun to get to know one another on a more personal level and how stunning, was it not, to be part of the wonderful colourful group of strong and good women doing this challenge? Through all of the event this day and on Arik and Suzi, along with the support group, namely Progi and the Napalese drivers, had handled everything so very capably and professionally. Hilary stated that she and I now had a 'new life' having escaped careering into the gorge below. We gave thanks.

The pictures below, of the accident, are those taken by Limor Sidi and shared with the participants of Xtripwomenstravel via Face Book.

See how building is built upon so informally





Righting Team Tara's vehicle

Napalese carry much weight from the head (foreground) or balanced on the head.



Looking down into Tatopani Village from the roof of the inn or lodge where we spent the night.

                                                            

TRISHULI RIVER. Royal Beach Camp and white water rafting

Day 3
3 October
Morning dawned and as we opened the tent flaps, and gazed across the grass banks upon which the tents were pitched, we beheld the magnificance of the Trishuli River as it rushed past the camp, still clothed by the early morning mist, which would, in a few hours, be burned off by a very hot Nepali sun. A splendid view, a river promising challenge and enigmatic in the great power of the fast flowing waters. An artery of Nepal which rises in the northern mountains of the Langtang National Park and meeets with two other rivers, namely the Kaligandaki and the Marsyangdi River, its name means trident which is the three pronged spear of a Nepalese god. The summer monsoons had passed but there was still much water in the river and the consensus was that the waters were high enough to be considered grade 5 in the rapids. I felt some anxiety because grade 4 holds possibility of a raft overturning. I had rafted in the Zambesi but that was some ten years ago and today's rafting would need  some courage!

The day began with Smadal's early morning gentle yoga class on the beach beside the river. That was quite a special experience. Following a light breakfast we set off by coach to where it was deemed a safe place to start the rafting. We were briefed by the group of rafters who covered what to do and what not to do. In life jackets and helmets we were in for the proverbal penny! What a beautiful thing to have quiet times to enjoy the vegetation of  the mountains between which the river flowed, to gently float in calm waters, where some played as they took a dip, to look above at school children and adults, often colourful and with parasols held aloft, all about their daily business. As the locals crossed the suspension bridges above, we heard the cheerful greeting  "Namastay" called to us in our fast moving rafts below. Meeting rapids brought the call from the skip, seated in the rear, to pull hard and though waves were high, to keep above the waves meant hard pulling with sustained determination. To avoid being washed off the raft required a quick expectant eye and a fast sink of ones torso down into the raft, only to spring up again and resume strong rowing. Team work was critical, and there was no time or possibility to stop for anyone washed over the edge of the raft. Such events were met with a canoe which was manned by a strong and experienced man who quickly pulled the reluctant swimmer to safety and loaded her on to the nearest steady raft. We lost two members, Hilary who had been seated in the front and Marian behind her. Marian was returned fairly soon after her dip. I gasped as I did not see Hilary again and did not want to panic but told our man that we were still one person short. He said "I know" and nothing more but I could see that there was no going back. A few moments later, to my relief, I saw my precious girl sitting with a broad smile in a raft some way down the river. When and how all that had happened, I did not see, such was the fury and strength of the rapids.

We covered 22km and were on the water for 5 hours. We all arrived back at the Royal Beach Camp with loud cheers as each raft came ashore. Legs seemed most burnt, the excitement and sense of satisfaction was palpable. We rested awhile and I was pleased to see Hilary and others like her were apparently none the worse for the experience of a tumble in the rapids some hours before. Marian claimed to have swallowed half of the Trishuli River! (See http:// wwwXtriptravel.com for a link to video clips)

We lunched on salads and plenty of starches as was becoming the trend it seemed. Showers were open or under thatch but cold and refreshing. Great stuff! We walked up the hill which we descended the evening before. On a small bed to the side of the path was an ox pulling a simple plough in a circle for the farmer to plant his crop on a handkerchief of ground, and I was amazed at how traditional rural life still was. Michelle, ahead of me, I admired, as she lithsomely went up the hill like a mountain goat while I puffed behind her with a stick for support.

One day in tents with the mosquitoes and other insects was perhaps enough. Our bus ride would be a good few hours as it head for Pohhara with, a good hotel! There were still great things to come. We were never quite sure exactly what these were to be! Suzi, our tour leader, definitely liked the element of surprise!
mmm A bit like school perhaps, but so what, this was a trip with a difference,  and we had all bought into the idea and it was proving to be more than interesting it was, a challenge and  fun!

Trishuli River: Cho Cho, from the tent beside ours, in the early morning light.

                                                    Some tents were on the sands of beach

KATHMANDOU VALLEY. Kopan monastery, Pashupatinath,Baktapur and Trishuli River

Day 2  2 October 2010
Kathmandou Valley to Trishuli River
Treasure Hunt; Cycling; Hiking; Sight Seeing and Bunker Down in tents on river bank

At the close of day, yesterday, we had been given Napalese clothing and beautifully dressed in eastern costume we had a traditional meal seated on little benches at a long table just above our folded knees. We had been given a talk by a representative from the Maiti Centre for child trafficking.We were entertained by traditional dancing and encouraged by the team of local ladies, some from the group, went to the stage, and finished the evening singing Resham phiriri ( A soft smooth wind is blowing...air which is soft and silky and smooth as silk). This was done with an impromptu and unstructured dance where arms are held above the head and hands and fingers gracefully moving to suit the imagery created by the words.

Our new day started with a visit to the Kopan monastery on a hill overlooking the Kathmandou city. We had a small challenge given us by way of using clues which enabled us to discover little places in the environs and lead us on as we found our way to Pashupatinath. What I saw at Pashupatinath was unexpected and to me was jarring. It is built on the bank of the Bagmati River which is said to flow eventually into the Ganges of India. It is the most sacred funeral place for Hindus of the world. Non-Hindu's were not allowed into the temple, a world heritage site, dedicated to Lord Shiva the Destroyer and Preserver. At the edge of the river we looked on to the burning ghats which were big stone plynths built at intervals along the river and held the burning dead bodies. Before burning, the bodies receive a purification ceremonoy at the edge of the river. Feet must be in the water and the water from the river is poured into the mouth of the deceased. A little group of mourners was around a body in one such ceremony as we looked on from across the other side of the river. (see picture) This site is ancient. It is dirty and alive with Hindus about their religious ceremonies as departed were remembered or perhaps they were just up and down about their religious activities and intentions. We were given a second task which was that each group would find the Sadhu depicted in a photograph. Sadu's led us away from the river scene to a quieter place where they gave us a blessing before we alighted bicycles and set off out of the rim of the Kathmandou valley towards the paddy fields and countryside. The cycle ride was 10km. I could not manage this too well and was asked if I would not rather put my bike into the back of the truck and ride alongside the driver. I realised that I would be holding folk up and anyway was tiring so agreed to the easy option. No penalities though, and fresher for the hike and steep hill climb (still unbeknown to us) but, awaiting us.

Sadhus are ascetics and they throng to Pashupatinath during Shivaratri the birthday of Lord Shiva where they can be seen smoking ganja, bhang and other hallucinogenic drugs in preparation for their meditative trance. I looked at some 'lean-to's' along the forested river bank and wondered whether they did not just sleep under these make shift shelters. Bodies of the were covered in soot, hair was long and matted and strung up in a variety of ways and faces were decorated with coloured powders. (see pictures)

Our cycle through the paddy fields showed some of the rural life, a way of life we were going to observe for the next few days. Building of homes was taking place. Here and there rice was being harvested and a variety of grains were drying in places such as patios or in front of houses, corn cobs from eves and poles, herbs on roofs, all in preparation for the winter. Nepal no longer exports rice as there is only enough for the local population. I saw no trucks or wheelbarrows. People carried rubble, food and any other commodity in baskets on their backs supported by a tie from across the forehead. In one place, clay from the paddy fields was being stacked for pottery use. Children were about and there was always a cheerful and respectful greeting of Namastay as hands were put together and we responded reciprocally as we passed the villagers by.

Wer had a steep hill to climb! On top we found another heritage site - a little village with spreads of plastic holding rice for drying in the village square. We boarded the coach waiting for us and went on the the UNESCO heritage site, Bhaktapur City where we had lunch in a restaurant over looking  the square where there were all kinds of interesting activities. People at shrines or stupas, shops selling curios, filming and entertainment for the local community. (see pictures)

We visited another Dubar Square (a UNESCO heritage site) and then back on the coach and late into the afternoon we made our way to Trishuli River. We arrived at night, were met by a small party who met the bus in the parking area and led us down the hill trumpting us in to the river side where we could not see the mighty river but could hear its rushing waters and knew it was but a short space away. We had a supper laid out for us on a low makeshift table set on the sandy beach with little lights about us. We showered a cold shower and set up for the evening in our two-man tents erected in preparation for our stay at the Royal Beach Camp.



Hindu purification ritual on the Bagmati River at Pashupatinath







Corn drying under the autumnal sun in preparation for the winter

Doing as villagers do laundry or ablutions at water source.

Unesco heritage sit. The city of Baktapur.

Baktapur City





Dubar Square Baktapur



Kathmandou City. Hotel Anapurna Reception and Orientation

Day 1
1 October 2010
Kathmandou City
Our first day was one seeing arrival of others to the touring party.

This tour had been set up through much networking of the tour leaders and as it finally came together there were 28 women on the expedition each would later be divided into teams of four.

Members represented 9 countries. One woman was from the Ukraine, some from Israel, some from India and Australia, four girls who had experienced various competitions as a team, each highly athletic, came from Holland. There were four local Nepalese women and of course,  Hilary and I, the only mother and daughter pair, from South Africa. One member came from China and another from Mayanmar. Several came as friends but for us all, there was great interest value in meeting women from other nations and setting up communication and friendly rapport as we planned for the next ten days together. Our commonality was the enthusiasm and the fact that everyone could speak English very well. Our first evening we climbed into rickshaws and were taken to a delightful informal restaurant with a courtyard and everyone was asked to sit beside someone they had not yet met. The fun started on our return to the hotel with one Dutch girl member took over riding the rickshaw bicycle for its owner.

The following day was officially the start to the trip. There were a few members still to arrive through the day but for those already there we had an early morning meeting where we were given an orientation talk by the tour leaders Suzi and Smadar and we received the clothing, backpacks, body care products made from Galilee herbs by Moraz, some utensils and we were told of the grouping arrangements. Teams of four were named after Napalese gods such as Ganesh, Hanuman, and Tara. After Nepal's mountains, Everest and Fishtail and the river Trisili. We had a team Sherpa as well. Sherpas were our support through much of the trip which involved hiking. Sherpers proved to be strong men, smallish stature as is the general build of the Napalese but, they have great tenacity and endurance and ability to tolerate high altitudes.

We left in a luxuary coach for a tour of the city Kathmandou which is nestled in a valley, seemingly with little city planning and of course there were the unworried cows and ever present whizzing motor bikes busy with their taxi service. Houses opened onto streets with shops in the entrance to the house and merchandise spilled onto the pavement or was set up on tables or shelves for passers by to make ready purchase from the pavement. Peering into many of these buildings, they seemed dark, simple and unlovely. Yes,  poverty was evident. I was soon to learn that this poverty was that of the daily living and was relative to western culture and the contexts from which we the tourist had come.  There was great spiritual wealth and a strong cultural heritage. We were about to uncover some of this.

Our coach dropped us off at  Soyambunath dome, Swayambou where we saw in very close proximity both Hindu and Buddhist temples, on top of a hill within the Environmental Park. It was busy! There were throngs of devotees and always tourists. There were priests, spiritual offerings and lamps which santified and mystified the holy place. We were given some information on the religions by our tour guides Suzi, Smadar and the local guide Ramila. Colourful flags strung between buildings and across spaces were colourful and gay, though they held deep spiritual meaning for those who had erected them. These are not taken down and remain until they disintegrate. In the centre was a large circular structure with Buddhist prayer wheels. Visitors touched to spin each wheel with the right hand, circumnavigating the building, always clockwise, as the mantra - one which we were going to hear all over Nepal - was said:  Om Mani Padme Hum

Hilary like others in the group, has received a Budhist blessings.

and given red powder to her forehead and has the scarf placed around her neck.Carolyn from China, touches the prayer wheels as she walks around the building.

Colourful prayer flags

A devotee leans into the shrine to place an offering for his intention.











We made our way down the steep and long flight of stairs and took taxis and did some walking to Dubar Square and the Hanuman Dhoka Square where there were the royal palaces of Malla Kings and then these were taken ver by the Sha Kings in about 1769. In 2001 King Bir Bikram Sha was the king.

Lunch was had in the restaurant overlooking the square and teams had to design and make flags and banners to be used on the trip. Team Tara was ours! It was comprised of Marian and Cho Cho, Hilary and myself. After lunch we had a team challenge as we were sent on a trail finding our way between the temples in the city, using clues and talking to the locals. We were now working together as a team and who was highly competative? Team Trisili - the Dutch girls!