Maughreen in Nepal: POKHARA 4x4 Driving from Pokhura along Kaligandike to Totopani

Day 4
4 October

Our evening arrival at the Pokhara after a long drive from Trishuli River was met with relief. We had a good hotel and would have a comfortable night. We had all brought wet clothing for which we had to make laundry arrangements. Little time was given to change and be ready for supper at a delightful restaurant a short way from the hotel. Some of us felt tired and we some felt the need to restructure the packing and organise ourselves after the less comfortable set up in small tents. Hil and I chose to join the Oz team for the evening and have a quick sandwich in the hotel's dining room and more time to address personal comforts, and organisation and besides this we still had to complete a small task given our team, Tara!

Early Tuesday morning, we were briefed on some aspects of 4x4 driving. We left early and the convoy of cars headed for Gaza along the mountain pass hugging the Kaligandaki River gorge. I drove out of town and some way towards the mountain area. I had had some comprehensive experience in Richard's 4x4 some months before. Hilary drove a while with Marion beside her kindly offering some instruction. Marion then took over the driving and we felt confident in her driving since she had informed us that she had good experience in a 4x4 and some years before, was an ambulance driver and paramedic. As the going became a little demanding we were advised to engage 4x4 mode and this brought some anxiety for Marion who informed us then that she had only driven an automatic 4x4. Added to this, she drove in Israel which was left hand driving and the cars in Nepal were right hand driving. Within a short space of time we reached a narrow part of the road, the car hit compacted sand on the side of the mountain and as if in slow motion, we gently tippled onto our side. Hilary and I were suspended by seat belts while Marion and Cho Cho were on the side touching the ground. All I could think of was the need to keep still as there was, no telling where the edge of road to the gorge below was, and the need to keep calm. Marion asked if we were all alright and within moments we had people around the car ready to help us out. I clearly remember Limo giving concise directions which was useful since from within the car we had no idea of the situation outside, and having had a shock, there was the need to be guided by someone who had a plan which would work in terms of the general situation we were now in. Limo said later when I remarked at how well she handled this, "I was in the Israeli army so have experience" We were helped out of the car and Hilary was the last to leave. She was overwrought with emotion having had the fright of been tipped during the white water rafting the day before, the stress she left at work and this, all proved too much for her at that stage. Smadar came to her aid with her knowledge of breathing techniques used in yoga which reduced her heart rate, and managed to restore a sense of calm for Hilary. Suzi with empathy and patience, then sat with Hilary at length, and seemed to be of comfort too. Later that night, Hilary and I had a long chat about all that had befallen us and her experience of it and how to handle the emotion and cognitively process it in a way that would empower her to be emotionally strong again and continue with courage.

Villagers had come to our aid and of course the Napalese mechanics/drivers who had accompanied the convoy all pulled the car in from the edge of the gorge and righted it. It could not be used by us. any Every personal posession was collected and returned to us, the car put into a space between two buildings of the next village and the convoy continued the journey which was not going to take us to Ghaza anymore, considering the delay caused by the accident, but to Tatopani which was less far. Some teams felt the event on the road, had upset them and chose to have Napalese drivers finish the driving. Hairpin bends on unsophisticated sandy roads with a gorge all the way below was not easy especially as night was falling. The varied consequences of an accident ramify in ripples and affect everyone in one way or another.

We arrived at, what must have been a hikers lodge, inTatopani in the evening. We were told that not all rooms had bathrooms so we had to share the ablutions though there was 'something of a shower and western toilet' on one roof. This was hiking style! Tatopani has hot springs which are sought after by tourists which invariably are hikers. Hilary and I had ditched our old costumes after the white water rafting so did not dip ourselves into the springs but besides this, I held concerns about a pool where many bodies come to wash. Back at the hotel Hils and I negotiated the use of a more acceptable shower with warm water and that was a good comfort for us after the experience of the day.

Our experience on the road had brought out so much in the character and personalities of individuals. For me, I realised how wonderful each person was in empathy and support. We had begun to get to know one another on a more personal level and how stunning, was it not, to be part of the wonderful colourful group of strong and good women doing this challenge? Through all of the event this day and on Arik and Suzi, along with the support group, namely Progi and the Napalese drivers, had handled everything so very capably and professionally. Hilary stated that she and I now had a 'new life' having escaped careering into the gorge below. We gave thanks.

The pictures below, of the accident, are those taken by Limor Sidi and shared with the participants of Xtripwomenstravel via Face Book.