Maughreen in Nepal: KATHMANDOU VALLEY. Kopan monastery, Pashupatinath,Baktapur and Trishuli River

Day 2 2 October 2010
Kathmandou Valley to Trishuli River
Treasure Hunt; Cycling; Hiking; Sight Seeing and Bunker Down in tents on river bank

At the close of day, yesterday, we had been given Napalese clothing and beautifully dressed in eastern costume we had a traditional meal seated on little benches at a long table just above our folded knees. We had been given a talk by a representative from the Maiti Centre for child trafficking.We were entertained by traditional dancing and encouraged by the team of local ladies, some from the group, went to the stage, and finished the evening singing Resham phiriri ( A soft smooth wind is blowing...air which is soft and silky and smooth as silk). This was done with an impromptu and unstructured dance where arms are held above the head and hands and fingers gracefully moving to suit the imagery created by the words.

Our new day started with a visit to the Kopan monastery on a hill overlooking the Kathmandou city. We had a small challenge given us by way of using clues which enabled us to discover little places in the environs and lead us on as we found our way to Pashupatinath. What I saw at Pashupatinath was unexpected and to me was jarring. It is built on the bank of the Bagmati River which is said to flow eventually into the Ganges of India. It is the most sacred funeral place for Hindus of the world. Non-Hindu's were not allowed into the temple, a world heritage site, dedicated to Lord Shiva the Destroyer and Preserver. At the edge of the river we looked on to the burning ghats which were big stone plynths built at intervals along the river and held the burning dead bodies. Before burning, the bodies receive a purification ceremonoy at the edge of the river. Feet must be in the water and the water from the river is poured into the mouth of the deceased. A little group of mourners was around a body in one such ceremony as we looked on from across the other side of the river. (see picture) This site is ancient. It is dirty and alive with Hindus about their religious ceremonies as departed were remembered or perhaps they were just up and down about their religious activities and intentions. We were given a second task which was that each group would find the Sadhu depicted in a photograph. Sadu's led us away from the river scene to a quieter place where they gave us a blessing before we alighted bicycles and set off out of the rim of the Kathmandou valley towards the paddy fields and countryside. The cycle ride was 10km. I could not manage this too well and was asked if I would not rather put my bike into the back of the truck and ride alongside the driver. I realised that I would be holding folk up and anyway was tiring so agreed to the easy option. No penalities though, and fresher for the hike and steep hill climb (still unbeknown to us) but, awaiting us.

Sadhus are ascetics and they throng to Pashupatinath during Shivaratri the birthday of Lord Shiva where they can be seen smoking ganja, bhang and other hallucinogenic drugs in preparation for their meditative trance. I looked at some 'lean-to's' along the forested river bank and wondered whether they did not just sleep under these make shift shelters. Bodies of the were covered in soot, hair was long and matted and strung up in a variety of ways and faces were decorated with coloured powders. (see pictures)

Our cycle through the paddy fields showed some of the rural life, a way of life we were going to observe for the next few days. Building of homes was taking place. Here and there rice was being harvested and a variety of grains were drying in places such as patios or in front of houses, corn cobs from eves and poles, herbs on roofs, all in preparation for the winter. Nepal no longer exports rice as there is only enough for the local population. I saw no trucks or wheelbarrows. People carried rubble, food and any other commodity in baskets on their backs supported by a tie from across the forehead. In one place, clay from the paddy fields was being stacked for pottery use. Children were about and there was always a cheerful and respectful greeting of Namastay as hands were put together and we responded reciprocally as we passed the villagers by.

Wer had a steep hill to climb! On top we found another heritage site - a little village with spreads of plastic holding rice for drying in the village square. We boarded the coach waiting for us and went on the the UNESCO heritage site, Bhaktapur City where we had lunch in a restaurant over looking the square where there were all kinds of interesting activities. People at shrines or stupas, shops selling curios, filming and entertainment for the local community. (see pictures)

We visited another Dubar Square (a UNESCO heritage site) and then back on the coach and late into the afternoon we made our way to Trishuli River. We arrived at night, were met by a small party who met the bus in the parking area and led us down the hill trumpting us in to the river side where we could not see the mighty river but could hear its rushing waters and knew it was but a short space away. We had a supper laid out for us on a low makeshift table set on the sandy beach with little lights about us. We showered a cold shower and set up for the evening in our two-man tents erected in preparation for our stay at the Royal Beach Camp.