POKHARA 4x4 Driving from Pokhura along Kaligandike to Totopani

Day 4
4 October

Our evening arrival at the Pokhara after a long drive from Trishuli River was met with relief. We had a good hotel and would have a comfortable night. We had all brought wet clothing for which we had to make laundry arrangements. Little time was given to change and be ready for supper at a delightful restaurant a short way from the hotel.  Some of us felt tired and we some felt the need to restructure the packing and organise ourselves after the less comfortable set up in small tents. Hil and I chose to join the Oz team for the evening and have a quick sandwich in the hotel's dining room and more time to address personal comforts, and organisation and besides this we still had to complete a small task given our team, Tara!

Early Tuesday morning, we were briefed on some aspects of 4x4 driving. We left early and the convoy of cars headed for Gaza along the mountain pass hugging the Kaligandaki River gorge. I drove out of town and some way towards the mountain area. I had had some comprehensive experience in Richard's 4x4 some months before. Hilary drove a while with Marion beside her kindly offering some instruction. Marion then took over the driving and we felt confident in her driving since she had informed us that she had good experience in a 4x4 and some years before, was an ambulance driver and paramedic.  As the going became a little demanding we were advised to engage 4x4 mode and this brought some anxiety for Marion who informed us then that she had only driven an automatic 4x4. Added to this, she drove in Israel which was left hand driving and the cars in Nepal were right hand driving. Within a short space of time we reached a narrow part of the road, the car hit compacted sand on the side of the mountain and as if in slow motion, we gently tippled onto our side. Hilary and I were suspended by seat belts while Marion and Cho Cho were on the side touching the ground. All I could think of was the need to keep still as there was, no telling where the edge of road to the gorge below was, and the need to keep calm. Marion asked if we were all alright and within moments we had people around the car ready to help us out. I clearly remember Limo giving concise directions which was useful since from within the car we had no idea of the situation outside, and having had a shock, there was the need to be guided by someone who had a plan which would work in terms of the general situation we were now in. Limo said later when I remarked at how well she handled this, "I was in the Israeli army so have experience" We were helped out of the car and Hilary was the last to leave. She was overwrought with emotion having had the fright of been tipped during the white water rafting the day before, the stress she left at work and this, all proved too much for her at that stage. Smadar came to her aid with her knowledge of breathing techniques used in yoga which reduced her heart rate, and managed to restore a sense of calm for Hilary. Suzi with empathy and patience, then sat with Hilary at length, and seemed to be of comfort too. Later that night, Hilary and I had a long chat about all that had befallen us and her experience of it and how to handle the emotion and cognitively process it in a way that would empower her to be emotionally strong again and continue with courage.

Villagers had come to our aid and of course the Napalese mechanics/drivers who had accompanied the convoy all pulled the car in from the edge of the gorge and righted it. It could not be used by us. any Every personal posession was collected and returned to us, the car put into a space between two buildings of the next village and the convoy continued the journey which was not going to take us to Ghaza anymore, considering the delay caused by the accident, but to Tatopani which was less far. Some teams felt the event on the road, had upset them and chose to have Napalese drivers finish the driving. Hairpin bends on unsophisticated sandy roads with a gorge all the way below was not easy especially as night was falling. The varied consequences of an accident ramify in ripples and affect everyone in one way or another.

We arrived at, what must have been a hikers lodge, inTatopani in the evening. We were told that not all rooms had bathrooms so we had to share the ablutions though there was 'something of a shower and western toilet' on one roof. This was hiking style! Tatopani has hot springs which are sought after by tourists which invariably are hikers. Hilary and I had ditched our old costumes after the white water rafting so did not dip ourselves into the springs but besides this, I held concerns about a pool where many bodies come to wash. Back at the hotel Hils and I negotiated the use of a more acceptable shower with warm water and that was a good comfort for us after the experience of the day.

Our experience on the road had brought out so much in the character and personalities of individuals. For me, I realised how wonderful each person was in empathy and support. We had begun to get to know one another on a more personal level and how stunning, was it not, to be part of the wonderful colourful group of strong and good women doing this challenge? Through all of the event this day and on Arik and Suzi, along with the support group, namely Progi and the Napalese drivers, had handled everything so very capably and professionally. Hilary stated that she and I now had a 'new life' having escaped careering into the gorge below. We gave thanks.

The pictures below, of the accident, are those taken by Limor Sidi and shared with the participants of Xtripwomenstravel via Face Book.

See how building is built upon so informally





Righting Team Tara's vehicle

Napalese carry much weight from the head (foreground) or balanced on the head.



Looking down into Tatopani Village from the roof of the inn or lodge where we spent the night.

                                                            

TRISHULI RIVER. Royal Beach Camp and white water rafting

Day 3
3 October
Morning dawned and as we opened the tent flaps, and gazed across the grass banks upon which the tents were pitched, we beheld the magnificance of the Trishuli River as it rushed past the camp, still clothed by the early morning mist, which would, in a few hours, be burned off by a very hot Nepali sun. A splendid view, a river promising challenge and enigmatic in the great power of the fast flowing waters. An artery of Nepal which rises in the northern mountains of the Langtang National Park and meeets with two other rivers, namely the Kaligandaki and the Marsyangdi River, its name means trident which is the three pronged spear of a Nepalese god. The summer monsoons had passed but there was still much water in the river and the consensus was that the waters were high enough to be considered grade 5 in the rapids. I felt some anxiety because grade 4 holds possibility of a raft overturning. I had rafted in the Zambesi but that was some ten years ago and today's rafting would need  some courage!

The day began with Smadal's early morning gentle yoga class on the beach beside the river. That was quite a special experience. Following a light breakfast we set off by coach to where it was deemed a safe place to start the rafting. We were briefed by the group of rafters who covered what to do and what not to do. In life jackets and helmets we were in for the proverbal penny! What a beautiful thing to have quiet times to enjoy the vegetation of  the mountains between which the river flowed, to gently float in calm waters, where some played as they took a dip, to look above at school children and adults, often colourful and with parasols held aloft, all about their daily business. As the locals crossed the suspension bridges above, we heard the cheerful greeting  "Namastay" called to us in our fast moving rafts below. Meeting rapids brought the call from the skip, seated in the rear, to pull hard and though waves were high, to keep above the waves meant hard pulling with sustained determination. To avoid being washed off the raft required a quick expectant eye and a fast sink of ones torso down into the raft, only to spring up again and resume strong rowing. Team work was critical, and there was no time or possibility to stop for anyone washed over the edge of the raft. Such events were met with a canoe which was manned by a strong and experienced man who quickly pulled the reluctant swimmer to safety and loaded her on to the nearest steady raft. We lost two members, Hilary who had been seated in the front and Marian behind her. Marian was returned fairly soon after her dip. I gasped as I did not see Hilary again and did not want to panic but told our man that we were still one person short. He said "I know" and nothing more but I could see that there was no going back. A few moments later, to my relief, I saw my precious girl sitting with a broad smile in a raft some way down the river. When and how all that had happened, I did not see, such was the fury and strength of the rapids.

We covered 22km and were on the water for 5 hours. We all arrived back at the Royal Beach Camp with loud cheers as each raft came ashore. Legs seemed most burnt, the excitement and sense of satisfaction was palpable. We rested awhile and I was pleased to see Hilary and others like her were apparently none the worse for the experience of a tumble in the rapids some hours before. Marian claimed to have swallowed half of the Trishuli River! (See http:// wwwXtriptravel.com for a link to video clips)

We lunched on salads and plenty of starches as was becoming the trend it seemed. Showers were open or under thatch but cold and refreshing. Great stuff! We walked up the hill which we descended the evening before. On a small bed to the side of the path was an ox pulling a simple plough in a circle for the farmer to plant his crop on a handkerchief of ground, and I was amazed at how traditional rural life still was. Michelle, ahead of me, I admired, as she lithsomely went up the hill like a mountain goat while I puffed behind her with a stick for support.

One day in tents with the mosquitoes and other insects was perhaps enough. Our bus ride would be a good few hours as it head for Pohhara with, a good hotel! There were still great things to come. We were never quite sure exactly what these were to be! Suzi, our tour leader, definitely liked the element of surprise!
mmm A bit like school perhaps, but so what, this was a trip with a difference,  and we had all bought into the idea and it was proving to be more than interesting it was, a challenge and  fun!

Trishuli River: Cho Cho, from the tent beside ours, in the early morning light.

                                                    Some tents were on the sands of beach

KATHMANDOU VALLEY. Kopan monastery, Pashupatinath,Baktapur and Trishuli River

Day 2  2 October 2010
Kathmandou Valley to Trishuli River
Treasure Hunt; Cycling; Hiking; Sight Seeing and Bunker Down in tents on river bank

At the close of day, yesterday, we had been given Napalese clothing and beautifully dressed in eastern costume we had a traditional meal seated on little benches at a long table just above our folded knees. We had been given a talk by a representative from the Maiti Centre for child trafficking.We were entertained by traditional dancing and encouraged by the team of local ladies, some from the group, went to the stage, and finished the evening singing Resham phiriri ( A soft smooth wind is blowing...air which is soft and silky and smooth as silk). This was done with an impromptu and unstructured dance where arms are held above the head and hands and fingers gracefully moving to suit the imagery created by the words.

Our new day started with a visit to the Kopan monastery on a hill overlooking the Kathmandou city. We had a small challenge given us by way of using clues which enabled us to discover little places in the environs and lead us on as we found our way to Pashupatinath. What I saw at Pashupatinath was unexpected and to me was jarring. It is built on the bank of the Bagmati River which is said to flow eventually into the Ganges of India. It is the most sacred funeral place for Hindus of the world. Non-Hindu's were not allowed into the temple, a world heritage site, dedicated to Lord Shiva the Destroyer and Preserver. At the edge of the river we looked on to the burning ghats which were big stone plynths built at intervals along the river and held the burning dead bodies. Before burning, the bodies receive a purification ceremonoy at the edge of the river. Feet must be in the water and the water from the river is poured into the mouth of the deceased. A little group of mourners was around a body in one such ceremony as we looked on from across the other side of the river. (see picture) This site is ancient. It is dirty and alive with Hindus about their religious ceremonies as departed were remembered or perhaps they were just up and down about their religious activities and intentions. We were given a second task which was that each group would find the Sadhu depicted in a photograph. Sadu's led us away from the river scene to a quieter place where they gave us a blessing before we alighted bicycles and set off out of the rim of the Kathmandou valley towards the paddy fields and countryside. The cycle ride was 10km. I could not manage this too well and was asked if I would not rather put my bike into the back of the truck and ride alongside the driver. I realised that I would be holding folk up and anyway was tiring so agreed to the easy option. No penalities though, and fresher for the hike and steep hill climb (still unbeknown to us) but, awaiting us.

Sadhus are ascetics and they throng to Pashupatinath during Shivaratri the birthday of Lord Shiva where they can be seen smoking ganja, bhang and other hallucinogenic drugs in preparation for their meditative trance. I looked at some 'lean-to's' along the forested river bank and wondered whether they did not just sleep under these make shift shelters. Bodies of the were covered in soot, hair was long and matted and strung up in a variety of ways and faces were decorated with coloured powders. (see pictures)

Our cycle through the paddy fields showed some of the rural life, a way of life we were going to observe for the next few days. Building of homes was taking place. Here and there rice was being harvested and a variety of grains were drying in places such as patios or in front of houses, corn cobs from eves and poles, herbs on roofs, all in preparation for the winter. Nepal no longer exports rice as there is only enough for the local population. I saw no trucks or wheelbarrows. People carried rubble, food and any other commodity in baskets on their backs supported by a tie from across the forehead. In one place, clay from the paddy fields was being stacked for pottery use. Children were about and there was always a cheerful and respectful greeting of Namastay as hands were put together and we responded reciprocally as we passed the villagers by.

Wer had a steep hill to climb! On top we found another heritage site - a little village with spreads of plastic holding rice for drying in the village square. We boarded the coach waiting for us and went on the the UNESCO heritage site, Bhaktapur City where we had lunch in a restaurant over looking  the square where there were all kinds of interesting activities. People at shrines or stupas, shops selling curios, filming and entertainment for the local community. (see pictures)

We visited another Dubar Square (a UNESCO heritage site) and then back on the coach and late into the afternoon we made our way to Trishuli River. We arrived at night, were met by a small party who met the bus in the parking area and led us down the hill trumpting us in to the river side where we could not see the mighty river but could hear its rushing waters and knew it was but a short space away. We had a supper laid out for us on a low makeshift table set on the sandy beach with little lights about us. We showered a cold shower and set up for the evening in our two-man tents erected in preparation for our stay at the Royal Beach Camp.



Hindu purification ritual on the Bagmati River at Pashupatinath







Corn drying under the autumnal sun in preparation for the winter

Doing as villagers do laundry or ablutions at water source.

Unesco heritage sit. The city of Baktapur.

Baktapur City





Dubar Square Baktapur



Kathmandou City. Hotel Anapurna Reception and Orientation

Day 1
1 October 2010
Kathmandou City
Our first day was one seeing arrival of others to the touring party.

This tour had been set up through much networking of the tour leaders and as it finally came together there were 28 women on the expedition each would later be divided into teams of four.

Members represented 9 countries. One woman was from the Ukraine, some from Israel, some from India and Australia, four girls who had experienced various competitions as a team, each highly athletic, came from Holland. There were four local Nepalese women and of course,  Hilary and I, the only mother and daughter pair, from South Africa. One member came from China and another from Mayanmar. Several came as friends but for us all, there was great interest value in meeting women from other nations and setting up communication and friendly rapport as we planned for the next ten days together. Our commonality was the enthusiasm and the fact that everyone could speak English very well. Our first evening we climbed into rickshaws and were taken to a delightful informal restaurant with a courtyard and everyone was asked to sit beside someone they had not yet met. The fun started on our return to the hotel with one Dutch girl member took over riding the rickshaw bicycle for its owner.

The following day was officially the start to the trip. There were a few members still to arrive through the day but for those already there we had an early morning meeting where we were given an orientation talk by the tour leaders Suzi and Smadar and we received the clothing, backpacks, body care products made from Galilee herbs by Moraz, some utensils and we were told of the grouping arrangements. Teams of four were named after Napalese gods such as Ganesh, Hanuman, and Tara. After Nepal's mountains, Everest and Fishtail and the river Trisili. We had a team Sherpa as well. Sherpas were our support through much of the trip which involved hiking. Sherpers proved to be strong men, smallish stature as is the general build of the Napalese but, they have great tenacity and endurance and ability to tolerate high altitudes.

We left in a luxuary coach for a tour of the city Kathmandou which is nestled in a valley, seemingly with little city planning and of course there were the unworried cows and ever present whizzing motor bikes busy with their taxi service. Houses opened onto streets with shops in the entrance to the house and merchandise spilled onto the pavement or was set up on tables or shelves for passers by to make ready purchase from the pavement. Peering into many of these buildings, they seemed dark, simple and unlovely. Yes,  poverty was evident. I was soon to learn that this poverty was that of the daily living and was relative to western culture and the contexts from which we the tourist had come.  There was great spiritual wealth and a strong cultural heritage. We were about to uncover some of this.

Our coach dropped us off at  Soyambunath dome, Swayambou where we saw in very close proximity both Hindu and Buddhist temples, on top of a hill within the Environmental Park. It was busy! There were throngs of devotees and always tourists. There were priests, spiritual offerings and lamps which santified and mystified the holy place. We were given some information on the religions by our tour guides Suzi, Smadar and the local guide Ramila. Colourful flags strung between buildings and across spaces were colourful and gay, though they held deep spiritual meaning for those who had erected them. These are not taken down and remain until they disintegrate. In the centre was a large circular structure with Buddhist prayer wheels. Visitors touched to spin each wheel with the right hand, circumnavigating the building, always clockwise, as the mantra - one which we were going to hear all over Nepal - was said:  Om Mani Padme Hum

Hilary like others in the group, has received a Budhist blessings.

and given red powder to her forehead and has the scarf placed around her neck.Carolyn from China, touches the prayer wheels as she walks around the building.

Colourful prayer flags

A devotee leans into the shrine to place an offering for his intention.











We made our way down the steep and long flight of stairs and took taxis and did some walking to Dubar Square and the Hanuman Dhoka Square where there were the royal palaces of Malla Kings and then these were taken ver by the Sha Kings in about 1769. In 2001 King Bir Bikram Sha was the king.

Lunch was had in the restaurant overlooking the square and teams had to design and make flags and banners to be used on the trip. Team Tara was ours! It was comprised of Marian and Cho Cho, Hilary and myself. After lunch we had a team challenge as we were sent on a trail finding our way between the temples in the city, using clues and talking to the locals. We were now working together as a team and who was highly competative? Team Trisili - the Dutch girls!

Kathmandou Greets Us

Five hours of flying took us across Pakistan, Afganistan across to Deli and north to Kathmandou. As we descended the scene from the window was of a disorganised array of concrete flat roofed houses and buildings many of several stories some decreasing in size and often a tiny room was on the roof. The airport seemed so undeveloped, so very simple. Was Nepal really only for trekkers and mountaineers? I wondered at how behind the times it seemed. We completed visa forms and were met by a sea of  black heads of little people shoulder to shoulder at the exit and all trying to get hands onto luggage in an effort to get a "teep". We clung as best we could to our luggage as we wheeled the trolley down a open air passage way and saw Progy the Napelese reparesentative with the Xtrip logo beackoning to us to determine whether we were his to be collected. We were ushered into the Combi and bottled water put into our hands. Atr once some faces appeared at the door saying "...you must pay us teeps" We certainly could not recollect having given any luggage to anyone but just by touching it there seemed to be a sense of service rendered! Progy sent them scuttling off and we waited for Carolyn who had just arrived from China to be collected. What a beautifully charming and educated woman who, as a tour agent in China, had been invited to join the trip. We had a wreath of marigolds hung around our necks with "Welcome to Nepal" said and we felt as though we truly were in an exotic country one beyond any dreams we had ever held! This was going to be an interesting and friendly country.

The Combi made its way through this city of Kathmandou. An ancient city, vibrant, frenetic, noisy with hooters and confusing with no apparent traffic rules and road markings. Cars pushed their way down the streets, hooters announced intention to push in, to advance and to be alert. They 'blew' from everywhere! Motorbikes swarmed like wasps to their nest as they taxied, mainly, women wearing no helmets and in saris with pearls flying backwards and trusting their lives to these motorcyclists. A new culture and a crazy city pulse was throbbing! This was a city which promised to tell many stories and held much to be discovered. 

We were delivered to Hotel Anapurna. The temperature was above 30 deg C. Suzi welcomed us at the Combi and once inside we heard the greetings, said with fingers held together in the prayer position and which we were to hear everywhere in Nepal: "Namastay" (I greet the God within you). We had comfortable rooms and felt the effect of a long trip, but excitement was high and I had to talk to Suzi whom I last saw in JHB, briefly after my visit to Israel. We needed to orientate ourselves. No time to rest and definitely catch up sleep was only to be enjoyed much later, that night! (Namastay is also said in farewell)

We leave Oliver Tambo for Doha Qatar

                                                  Hilary in the fast food shop of transit lounge: Doha

Taken by our good Rob to Oliver Tambo, Hilary and I duly boarded the Qatar Airlines plane set for Doha. We had a most comfortable flight with good food and good care. A clean well maintained plane and pleasant staff saw us in good spirits as we made our long flight to Qatar where we landed at night. The air was very humid and before we had reached the tarmac, our clothing was sticking to our limbs and breathing was a little strained. The transit lounge held an open plan floor of many shelves and display cabinets of jewellery, leather iterms electronic goods and cosmetics and of course, a shop with  alcohol and magazines and toys. There was a coffee lounge where we settled and soon began an informal and pleasant discussion with an American gentleman sitting at his computer, alongside us, and who had worked for a NGO which had facilitated peace in Nepal. Nepal gained a peaceful government four years ago. This man, having started his career in Nepal some twenty years before as a post graduate, had a Napelese wife.

Nepal

Some folk have asked me where Nepal is. I was not even sure myself. It lies between India and China and thousand of years ago was regarded as the historical and cultural link between ancient cultures and civilisations and Buddism which spread to Tibet. It is not a very developed country, the rupee is the currency and staple food is Dall and Bhaat. We willl find it a bit of a culture shock I think but therein the challenge and the drawing card is always to find new places and see new cultures. Our packing is not quite sorted but bit by bit the finer things are coming together. Good Rob, my husband,  is endless support as he sorts out forex, pops into shops for ointments and other 'precautionary' supplies. I think I will be taking nuts and apples and dates to help me get through this without having to eat the local food too much! I have heard to eat nothing unless it has a skin which can be peeled off.